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Twelve chapters, browsable in your browser, downloadable as a PDF whenever you want. Same content, no DRM, lifetime access while you're a member.

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  1. 01

    Land & don't panic.Free

    First 24 hours: the arrival card, the SIM question, your hotel's invisible WiFi, the taxi touts, and the only goal you need on Day 1.

    DRAFT
  2. 02

    Pay like a local.Free

    Your Visa is decoration and your cash is a souvenir. Here's how to pay for noodles in China after ten minutes of setup.

    DRAFT
  3. 03

    Eat everything.In the guide

    The QR code is the menu, the waiter is busy, and the dish you want has no English name. Six phrases and one finger fix all of it.

    DRAFT
  4. 04

    Get around the city.In the guide

    Didi, metro, bullet trains, and the question everyone asks: can I just rent a car? (Probably not. Here's why, and what to do instead.)

    DRAFT
  5. 05

    Visa & paperwork.In the guide

    Half the people reading this don't need a visa anymore. The other half need the right one. Plus the residence permit, the 24-hour registration, and what an overstay really costs.

    DRAFT
  6. 06

    Get an apartment.In the guide

    The listing is a starting price, the photos are optimistic, and the person showing you round may not own the flat. How to rent in China without losing your deposit.

    DRAFT
  7. 07

    Healthcare without panic.In the guide

    Public hospital or international clinic, what the pharmacy will and won't sell you, which medicines to leave at home, and the 120 call script.

    DRAFT
  8. 08

    Banking & money.In the guide

    Opening a Chinese bank account as a foreigner, why your new card won't let you pay rent, getting your salary home, and the 183-day tax rule.

    DRAFT
  9. 09

    The Great Firewall.In the guide

    Gmail spins, WhatsApp is silent, and your signal is full. What's blocked, the travel eSIM trick most visitors don't know about, VPNs and the law, and the Chinese apps that just work.

    DRAFT
  10. 10

    Holidays & travel.In the guide

    The week a billion people travel at once, the Saturdays you have to work, how to get a train ticket when everyone wants one, and five places worth the trip.

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  11. 11

    Culture & etiquette.In the guide

    Things that look rude and aren't. Things that look fine and aren't. The dinner table, the toast, the gift you should never give, the fight over the bill, and what to do when a fight is real.

    DRAFT
  12. 12

    Going home.In the guide

    Your phone number is the key to everything, your deposit is still in the landlord's account, and your pension can come with you. The last month, in the right order.

    DRAFT

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